| Welcome back colleagues and
friends! Cuisine & Culture is delighted to bring to you this special issue
on Korean cuisine from
a far-flung venue in the Far East--Busan, Republic of Korea where the 3rd
and final UNEP/CBD session on an intergovernmental science and policy platform
for biodiversity and ecosystem services has successfully completed its mission
with a Busan Outcome document setting out the principles for the establishment
of the platform following intense and often heated negotiations. The intensity and
at times, tit for tat of the negotiations did not, however, prevent the
participants from sampling a great variety of the local Korean food while
savoring the culture to which the Korean cuisine is intimately tied.
Korean food as a
national
cuisine known today has evolved through centuries
of social and political change. Its roots can be traced back to myths and
legends of antiquity. Originating from ancient
agricultural and nomadic traditions in southern
Manchuria and northern
Korean peninsula, Korean cuisine has evolved
through a complex interaction of the natural environment and different cultural
trends.It is largely based on rice, noodles,
tofu,
vegetables, and meats. Traditional Korean meals are noted for the number of
side dishes (banchan) that accompany steam-cooked rice.
Kimchi, a fermented, spicy vegetable dish is usually served
at every meal. Korean cuisine usually involves rich seasoning with
sesame oil,
doenjang (fermented
soybean
paste),
soy sauce, salt, garlic, ginger, and
gochujang (red chili paste).
Dining
etiquette
Dining etiquette in Korea goes back to the
Confucian
philosophies of the Joseon period. Guidebooks such as
Sasojeol
(士小節, Elementary Etiquette for Scholar
Families) written in 1775 by Yi Deokmu (李德懋), comment on the dining etiquette for the period. Suggestions include
items such as “when you see a fat cow,
goat, pig, or chicken, do not immediately speak of slaughtering, cooking or
eating it, when you are having a
meal with others, do not speak of smelly or dirty things, such as boils or
diarrhea when eating a meal,
neither eat so slowly as to appear to be eating against your will nor too fast as if to be taking someone else's
food. Do not throw chopsticks on the table. Spoons should not touch plates
making a clashing sound”.
The eldest male at the table was
always served first, commonly served to them in the men's quarters by the women
of the house. Women usually dined in a separate space of the house after the
men were served. The eldest men or women always ate before their younger counterparts.
The meal was usually quiet, as conversation was discouraged during meals. In
modern times these rules have become lax, as families usually dine together now
while conversing among themselves. Of the remaining elements of this decorum,
one is that the younger members of the table should not pick up their
chopsticks or
start eating before the elders of the table.
The manner of drinking alcoholic
drinks at dining is particularly important in Korean dining etiquette. Each
diner is expected to face away from the eldest male and cover his or her mouth
when drinking alcoholic drinks. In more strict situations, when the eldest male
offers a diner a drink, the diner should politely refuse it three times. After
three refusals, when the eldest male offers one more time, then finally the
diner can receive it and start to drink.
The table setup is important as
well, and individual place settings, moving from the diner's left should be as
follows: rice bowl, spoon, then chopsticks. Hot foods are set to the right side
of the table, with the cold ones to the left. Soup must remain on the right
side of the diner along with stews. Vegetables remain on the left along with
the rice, and kimchi is set to the back while sauces remain in the front.
Foodstuffs
Grains

Dolsotbap, cooked rice in a stone pot (dolsot).
Grains
have been one of the most important staples to the Korean diet. Early myths of
the foundations of various kingdoms in Korea center on grains. One basic
myth relates to
Jumong who received barley seeds from two
doves
sent by his mother after establishing the kingdom of
Goguryeo. Yet another myth speaks
of the three founding deities of
Jeju Island whom were to be
wed to the three princesses of
Tamna; the deities brought
seeds of five grains which were the first seeds planted which in turn became
the first instance of farming.
During the pre-modern
era, grains such as barley and millet were the main staples supplemented by
wheat,
sorghum, and
buckwheat. Rice is not an indigenous crop to Korea which became the grain of
choice during the Three Kingdoms period, particularly in the kingdoms of
Silla
and
Baekje in the southern regions of the peninsula.
Rice was such an important commodity in Silla that it was used to pay
taxes. The
Sino-Korean
word for "tax" is a compound character that utilizes the character
for the rice plant. The preference for rice escalated into the
Joseon period when new methods of cultivation
and new varieties emerged that would help increase production.
Legumes

Kongguksu, a cold noodle dish with a broth made
from ground soy beans.
Legumes have been
significant crops in Korean history and cuisine based on the earliest preserved
legumes found in
archaeological sites
in Korea. The excavation at Okbang
site,
Jinju,
South Gyeongsang province indicates that
soybeans were cultivated as a food crop in ca.
1000–900 BCE. They are made into
tofu (dubu), while
soybean sprouts are sauteed as a vegetable (kongnamul) and whole soybeans are seasoned
and served as a side dish. They are also made into
soy milk, which is used as the base for the
noodle dish called
kongguksu.
A by-product of soy
milk production is
okara (kongbiji),
which is used to thicken stews and porridges. Soybeans may also be one of the
beans in
kongbap, which boil together with several
types of beans and other grains. Soybeans are additionally the primary
ingredient involved in the production of fermented condiments collectively
referred to as jang, such as soy bean pastes,
doenjang and
cheonggukjang, a soy sauce called
ganjang, chili pepper paste or
gochujang and among others.

Tangpyeongchae, a dish made with
nokdumuk (a
mung bean starch jelly) and vegetables
Meat and
fish
In antiquity, most
meat in Korea was likely obtained through
hunting and
fishing. Ancient records indicate that rearing
of
livestock began on a small scale during the
Three Kingdoms period. Meat was consumed roasted or in soups or stews during
this period. Those who lived closer to the oceans were able to complement their
diet with more fish while those who lived in the interior had a diet containing
more meat.
Beef
See
also:
List of Korean dishes,
Meat

Beef is the most prized of all meats, with the cattle itself
holding an important cultural role in the Korean home. The cattle were regarded
as servants and seen as an equal to human servants. Cattle were also given
their own holiday during the first 'cow' day of the
lunar New Year. The importance of the cattle
does not suggest that Koreans ate an abundance of beef, however, as pork and
seafood were more likely consumed on a more regular basis as the cattle were
valued as
beasts of burden. The Buddhist ruling class of
the Goryeo period forbade the consumption of beef. The
Mongols dispensed with the ban of beef during the 13th
century and they promoted the production of beef cattle. This increased
production continued into the Joseon period when the government encouraged both
increased quantities and quality of beef.
It has only been in
the latter part of the 20th century that beef has become regular table fare.
Beef is prepared in numerous ways today including roasting or grilling (gui),
boiling in
soups. Beef can also be dried as with seafood
called respectively yukpo and eopo.
Pork

Pork has also been another important land based protein for Korea. Records indicate that pigs have been a
part of the Korean diet back to antiquity, similar to cattle rearing.
A number of foods
have been avoided while eating pork including
Chinese bellflower
(doraji, 도라지) and
lotus root (yeonn ppuri, 연뿌리) as the combinations have
been thought to cause diarrhea. All parts of the pig are used in Korean cuisine
in a variety of cooking methods including steaming, stewing, boiling, and
smoking.
Dog meat

A
dish made with
dog meat in South Korea
The consumption of
dog meat in Korea dates back to antiquity. The
primary dog breed raised for meat, the
nureongi (누렁이), differs from those breeds raised for pets which
Koreans may keep in their homes. For those who consume dog meat, they usually
do so during the summer months in either roasted form or prepared in soups. The
most popular of these soups is
gaejang-guk (also called bosintang),
a spicy stew meant to balance the body's heat during the summer months;
followers of the custom claim this is done to ensure good health by balancing
one's
gi, or vital energy of the body. A 19th
century version of gaejang-guk explains that the dish is prepared by
boiling dog meat with
scallions and
chili powder. Variations of the dish contain
chicken and
bamboo shoots. While the dishes are still
popular in Korea with a segment of the
population, dog is not as widely consumed as beef, chicken, and pork.
Fish and
seafood

A
bowl of
gejang, marinated crabs in soy sauce and
plates of various
banchan (small side
dishes).
Fish and shellfish
have been a major part of Korean cuisine because of the oceans bordering the
peninsula. Evidence from the 12th century illustrates that commoners consumed a
diet mostly of fish and shellfish such as
shrimp,
clams,
oysters,
abalone, and
loach, while
sheep
and hogs were reserved for the upper class.
Both fresh and
saltwater fish are popular and are served raw, grilled, broiled, dried, and
served in soups and stews. Common grilled fish include
mackerel,
hairtail,
croaker, and
Pacific herring. Smaller fish, shrimps, squid,
mollusks and countless other seafood can be salted as
Jeotgal. Fish can also be grilled either whole
or in fillets as
banchan. Fish is often dried naturally in order
to prolong storing periods and enable shipping over long distances. Fish
commonly dried include
yellow corvina,
anchovies (myeolchi) and
croaker.
Shellfish is widely
eaten in all different types of preparation. They can be used to prepare
broth, eaten raw with chogochujang which
is a mixture of
gochujang (chili
pepper paste) and vinegar, or used as a popular ingredient in countless dishes.
Raw oysters and other seafood can be used in making kimchi to improve and vary
the flavor.
Salted baby shrimps
are used as a seasoning agent known as
saeujeot for the preparation of some types
of kimchi. Large shrimp are often grilled as
daeha
gui (대하구이) or dried, mixed with
vegetables and served with rice.
Mollusks eaten in Korean
cuisine include
octopus,
cuttlefish, and
squid.
Vegetables
Korean cuisine uses a
wide variety of vegetables, which are often served uncooked, either in salads or
pickles, as well as cooked in various stews, stir-fried dishes, and other hot
dishes. Commonly used vegetables include
daikon,
Napa cabbage, cucumber, potato, sweet potato,
spinach, scallions , garlic, chili peppers,
seaweed,
zucchini, mushrooms, and
lotus root. Several types of wild greens, known
collectively as
chwinamul (such as
Aster scaber), are a popular dish, and other
wild vegetables such as
bracken fern shoots (gosari)
or
Korean bellflower
root (doraji) are also harvested and eaten in season. Medicinal herbs
such as
ginseng,
reishi,
wolfberry,
Codonopsis pilosula,
and
Angelica sinensis
are often used as ingredients in cooking, as in
samgyetang.
  
Vegetarian
cuisine
Vegetarian cookery
in Korea may be linked to the
Buddhist traditions that influenced Korean
culture from the
Goryeo dynasty onwards. There are hundreds of
vegetarian restaurants in Korea although historically they
have been local restaurants that are unknown to tourists. Most have buffets,
with cold food, and vegetarian
kimchi and
tofu
being the main features.
Bibimbap is a common
vegan
dish. Menus change with seasons. De-alcoholized wine, and fine
teas are also served. The
Korean tea ceremony
is suitable for all vegetarians and vegans, and began with Buddhist influences.
All food is eaten with a combination of rather slippery stainless steel oval
chopsticks and a long-handled shallow spoon
called together
sujeo.
Korean vegetarian
restaurants also exist outside Korea, such as
Manhattan's Hangawi and Franchia, and
Chicago's Amitabul.
Soups and stews

Tteokguk, soup made with
tteok,
rice cake
Soups are a common
part of any Korean meal. Unlike other cultures, in Korean culture, soup is
served as part of the main course rather than at the beginning or the end of
the meal as an accompaniment to rice along with other
banchan. Soups known as
guk
are often made with meats, shellfish and vegetables. Soups can be made in to
more formal soups known as
tang often served
as the main dish of the meal.
Jjigae are a thicker,
heavier seasoned soup or stew.
Kimchi

As is above mentioned,
Kimchi refers to pickled vegetables usually made with
Napa cabbage,
daikon, or sometimes cucumber, commonly fermented in a brine
of ginger, garlic, scallions, and chilli pepper. There are endless varieties,
and it is served as a side dish or cooked into soups and rice dishes. Koreans
traditionally make enough kimchi to last for the entire winter season, although
with refrigerators and commercial jarred kimchi this practice has become less
common.
Noodles

Noodles or noodle dishes in Korean cuisine are collectively
referred to as "guksu" in native Korean or "myeon"
in
hanja. While noodles were eaten in Korea from ancient times,
production of wheat was less than other crops, so noodles did not become a
daily food until 1945. Buckwheat (memil guksu) and wheat noodles (milguksu)
were specialty foods for birthdays, weddings or auspicious occasions because
the long and continued shape were thought to be associated with the blessing
for longevity and long-lasting marriage. In Korean traditional noodle dishes
are onmyeon or called guksu jangguk (noodles with a hot clear
broth),
naengmyeon (cold buckwheat noodles),
bibim guksu (cold noodle dish mixed with
vegetables),
kalguksu (knife-cut noodles),
kongguksu (noodles with a cold soybean
broth) and among others.
Enjoy!
From the Editor: Cuisine & Culture obtains its materials both online and off line with sources omitted
for reason of simplicity but can be provided upon request. Certain materials
come in languages other than English that Cuisine & Culture renders
into English to the best of its ability. Cuisine &
Culture is not in a position to verify the veracity of the
materials provided herein. Reader’s discretion is kindly advised.
A Special
Acknowledgement of Thanks from Cuisine &
Culture
Cuisine & Culture wishes to express
its heartfelt thanks to Kevin Wambura of the ITS team
here at UNON in Nairobi and Yawtsong Lee, a veteran
interpreter at UN headquarters, now retired, for their technical advice and
assistance and is hereby extremely pleased to retain them as Technical Advisors
to Cuisine
& Culture.
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